Thursday, October 22, 2009

Vang Vieng

Day 74: Vang Vieng, Laos
There's something very surreal about Vang Vieng, must be something they put in the water. Well maybe not the water, but they are putting it in everything else you eat or drink here.
Allow me to explain....
After a very uncomfortable minivan ride (the van seats 10, the driver managed to squeeze in 11) I arrived in the evening to the fabled town of Vang Vieng. A large number of people that I have met in my travels had spoken in awe of this place, so I was hoping that it lived up to the hype.
Was really tired after the long drive so went for a walk around the town with a few English blokes who were on the same bus as me looking for a guest house, I have long since ceased relying on guide books for recommendations because once a place makes a guidebook they generally celebrate by tripling their prices... It was pitch black by this stage but I found a good one by the river for US$10 a night, quite expensive as far as guest houses go but the location was great and the view was incredible, as I will get to later on.
As far as the town goes, it's like a little Khao Sahn Road from Thailand or Koh Pahgnan with a large variety of food and bar options and alot of the restaurants show back to back episodes (instead of movies which they had on KP) of Friends or Family Guy while you enjoy your meal. Instead of tables though they have bed like seating where you can stretch out your legs, it takes reclining to a new level.
The town is situated alongside the mountains but it isn't in a moutain range, just a ridge, the rest of the region is flat as a pancake. The town is built on either side of the Nong Sam river which runs right through the middle of Vang Vieng, most guest houses are situated on the river bank and the bars are all on the island in the middle which is accessed via two small wooden footbridges which cross over.Most of the activities in the town revolve around the river, although there is some good climbing in the mountains the highlights are the kayaking, rafting....... and tubing.This will need a whole post of it's own to do it justice, but suffice to say that this is what attracts people to Vang Vieng and is an experience that cannot be missed if you are traveling in this region.After putting my bag away I wandered around a bit (bearing in mind it's 10pm by this stage) and found the bridge which leads to the Sunset Bar (and Smile Bar), wasn't really looking for anywhere in particular but ended up there anyway. The Sunset Bar had an interesting menu, along with the obligatory beer, spirits and cocktails they also serve Happy Pizzas (ganja milkshakes), Magic Shakes (Magic Mushroom Shakes) and Big O Tea (Opium Tea). While all this is illegal, and getting caught by the police smoking a joint will cost yo US$500 fine, as long as teh bars have paid their protection money to the police they generally let the bars run with impunity as long as they are discreet about it (and of course they continue to pay their protection money to the police).
So with all the psychadelic drugs on offer in Vang Vieng you could imagine the effect that it has had on the culture of the town. There is a very Neo-Hippy laid back feel to the place, everyone is really relaxed and the occasion waft of ganja is present wherever you go, all the bartenders are on the lookout for plain-clothes cops so busts are quite rare about the pace. Talking to a few of the bar staff they say it used to be alot more blatant but pressure excerted by the DEA in the region has caused governments to crack down alot more, along with the ASEAN Games which are coming up shortly in Vang Vieng. Had a few beers at Sunset Bar with the locals, this probably rates as one of the friendliest places I have been to along with El Nido and Koh Phagnan, what started out as 5 or 6 people around the bar at 10pm turned into a full scale rave by 1pm...About 2am there was an almighty storm, the after effects of Ketsana were still having their impact in the region and providing an incredible light show for anyone lucky enough see it. It was like something from Lord of the Rings, the river and the little bungalows on each side and all noise of everyone celebrating, then BANG! the mountains are illuminated with a flash of lightning and crash of thunder...
The raw nature in effect was something incredible to behold, I can't remember ever having seen such an amazing natural light show anywhere in Asia, truly a one in a million peak experience that I can't imagine seeing again in a hurry.
Got to sleep as the sun came up then checked out of the guest house into a cheaper one the next day, ready for a big day of tubing down the Nam Song.


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