Thursday, October 22, 2009

Vang Vieng

Day 74: Vang Vieng, Laos
There's something very surreal about Vang Vieng, must be something they put in the water. Well maybe not the water, but they are putting it in everything else you eat or drink here.
Allow me to explain....
After a very uncomfortable minivan ride (the van seats 10, the driver managed to squeeze in 11) I arrived in the evening to the fabled town of Vang Vieng. A large number of people that I have met in my travels had spoken in awe of this place, so I was hoping that it lived up to the hype.
Was really tired after the long drive so went for a walk around the town with a few English blokes who were on the same bus as me looking for a guest house, I have long since ceased relying on guide books for recommendations because once a place makes a guidebook they generally celebrate by tripling their prices... It was pitch black by this stage but I found a good one by the river for US$10 a night, quite expensive as far as guest houses go but the location was great and the view was incredible, as I will get to later on.
As far as the town goes, it's like a little Khao Sahn Road from Thailand or Koh Pahgnan with a large variety of food and bar options and alot of the restaurants show back to back episodes (instead of movies which they had on KP) of Friends or Family Guy while you enjoy your meal. Instead of tables though they have bed like seating where you can stretch out your legs, it takes reclining to a new level.
The town is situated alongside the mountains but it isn't in a moutain range, just a ridge, the rest of the region is flat as a pancake. The town is built on either side of the Nong Sam river which runs right through the middle of Vang Vieng, most guest houses are situated on the river bank and the bars are all on the island in the middle which is accessed via two small wooden footbridges which cross over.Most of the activities in the town revolve around the river, although there is some good climbing in the mountains the highlights are the kayaking, rafting....... and tubing.This will need a whole post of it's own to do it justice, but suffice to say that this is what attracts people to Vang Vieng and is an experience that cannot be missed if you are traveling in this region.After putting my bag away I wandered around a bit (bearing in mind it's 10pm by this stage) and found the bridge which leads to the Sunset Bar (and Smile Bar), wasn't really looking for anywhere in particular but ended up there anyway. The Sunset Bar had an interesting menu, along with the obligatory beer, spirits and cocktails they also serve Happy Pizzas (ganja milkshakes), Magic Shakes (Magic Mushroom Shakes) and Big O Tea (Opium Tea). While all this is illegal, and getting caught by the police smoking a joint will cost yo US$500 fine, as long as teh bars have paid their protection money to the police they generally let the bars run with impunity as long as they are discreet about it (and of course they continue to pay their protection money to the police).
So with all the psychadelic drugs on offer in Vang Vieng you could imagine the effect that it has had on the culture of the town. There is a very Neo-Hippy laid back feel to the place, everyone is really relaxed and the occasion waft of ganja is present wherever you go, all the bartenders are on the lookout for plain-clothes cops so busts are quite rare about the pace. Talking to a few of the bar staff they say it used to be alot more blatant but pressure excerted by the DEA in the region has caused governments to crack down alot more, along with the ASEAN Games which are coming up shortly in Vang Vieng. Had a few beers at Sunset Bar with the locals, this probably rates as one of the friendliest places I have been to along with El Nido and Koh Phagnan, what started out as 5 or 6 people around the bar at 10pm turned into a full scale rave by 1pm...About 2am there was an almighty storm, the after effects of Ketsana were still having their impact in the region and providing an incredible light show for anyone lucky enough see it. It was like something from Lord of the Rings, the river and the little bungalows on each side and all noise of everyone celebrating, then BANG! the mountains are illuminated with a flash of lightning and crash of thunder...
The raw nature in effect was something incredible to behold, I can't remember ever having seen such an amazing natural light show anywhere in Asia, truly a one in a million peak experience that I can't imagine seeing again in a hurry.
Got to sleep as the sun came up then checked out of the guest house into a cheaper one the next day, ready for a big day of tubing down the Nam Song.


Sunday, October 18, 2009

Luang Prabang

Day 71: Luang Prabang, Laos
Landlocked Laos is one of the Asia's most enchanting destinations. Stunning natural beauty -- think mist-shrouded mountain peaks flanked by jungle-clad valleys teeming with wildlife -- combine with a fascinating Buddhist culture to make Laos a superb destination for backpackers and independent travellers, while luxury tourists are now also well-catered for.
Communist Laos flung open its doors to tourism in the early 1990s. The last decade has witnessed an explosion in development as businesses -- some Lao, some foreign -- mushroom to cater to the swelling crowds.
Laos is changing fast, but pockets remain well off-the-beaten-track, ready to be explored by adventure travellers willing to forego the usual tourist luxuries. Those who want to experience a real taste of rural Southeast Asian life will be delighted.
www.Travelfish.com

So after a hectic 71 days of travel which has covered the Philippines, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia and Indonesia I have ticked off most off the to do items on my list and have about 10 days up my sleeve to unwind and take the time to enjoy myself before heading back to Australia. Where better to do this than the Peoples Republic of Laos?
After saying goodbye to Siem Reap I hopped on a plane to Lubang Prabang, situated on the Mekong river and former capital city of Laos. I had only planned to spend one night here but ended up staying for two, the town has a wonderfully relaxed feel to it quite removed from some of the more hectic regions around the place. My minivan didn't arrive for my trip to Vang Vieng so after rebooking a bus for the afternoon I took the time to explore the town a little bit more and am quite glad I did. At the top of the hill which straddles the city there sits a giant buddha stupa which overlooks the town, visible day and night. I climbed to the top of here and found the most amazing view of the town all the way to the mountains. After this I had just enough time for breakfast so I visited the now opening Utopia Bar.The interesting thing about this establishment which overlooks the river is that on the edge of the balcony there is a 10 metre drop, no railing or anything which may stop a inebriated patron from plunging down below. I asked the waiter if anyone had ever fallen from here and he told me that no one had, which would be amazing if it were true. Had my breakfast while enjoying the picturesque view of the river before boarding the cramped minivan for the 6 hour drive to Vang Vien, Luang Prabang was a lovely little diversion and I am now well rested for the final leg of my Asian trip.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Holiday In Cambodia


Day 68: Siem Reap, Cambodia
This is now the fifth time I have written this post but due to the ultra slow internet speed in Cambodia everytime I go to save it I have lost my internet connection.
I suppose if that's my biggest problem this week then I am doing okay....
So I am staying at the Globalteers guest house at the moment, a beautiful French colonial building, 4 storeys high with a magnificent view of the town and a spectacular photo opportunity at sunrise (so I am told). It's interesting how European colonisation has left it's footprint on the countries in which they settled and subsequently left, the British in Malaysia, the Spanish in the Philippines and the French in Vietnam and surrounding countries. Thailand is the only one which hasn't been conquored by a foreign power, the impact on the culture, the food, language and architecture lingers to the present day.As I got in late on Friday I missed my first day at the project, I was allocated to Anjali House which is where all the streetkids go to learn English. I am teaching English to the kids which hasn't been too hard, after 18 months in Malaysia my accent is at a 7/10 now and I have a really good rapport with the students who are also right into their sports and music like me, although I tried to teach them a bit of Aussie Rules but it didn't really translate. I was an assistant coach with the Malaysian Warriors under 18s side when I was living in Malaysia so I thought it would be worth a shot, I gave up and taught them how to play some Powderfinger songs on the guitar instead so no harm done.
Its pretty tragic what these kids have gone through, makes me really sad but there is a light at the end of the tunnel for them. I can't see any of these kids becoming a doctors or lawyer but if they can get their English right then they should be able to support themselves through the hospitality or tourism industry which is increasing massively day by day. Hopefully maybe their kids will be able to take it to the next level though as it looks like this generation has successfully broken the cycle of poverty that has gone on since the civil war in the 1970's. They have fixed the road into Siem Reap from Bangkok and the Airport has been redone so that will mean lots more tourism meaning more bucks coming into town, and more of the right sort of tourist rather than the wrong sort that has been all too prevalent in their lives up until this point.
Too tragic to think about, there but for the grace of God go I....
Theres an interesting phenomenon with the volunteers situation in that there are 10 females for every male at the project, you would think a single guy would enjoy these ratios. Unfortunately the reality is that most of them are tree hugging save the pink whales feminists so haven't really spent much time socialising with the crew as I would have thought. Each to his own.
All in all it's been a really good experience, although it really kills a cynic like me to say it but the NGO's are making a big difference in Cambodia and the country is all the better for it. A bit unorganised at times but their hearts are in the right place and the town really appreciates anyone who makes an effort to help out. The only thin I didn't know is That Siem reap/Cambodia has some of the best trails in the world for dirt bike riding, if I had known that I would have extended my stay for an extra week, unfortunately I uncovered that piece of information right after I booked my fare to Laos. Oh well, another thing for the ever increasing To-Do list, off to Luang Prabang tomorrow for the the backpacker paradise of Vien Vang for a week of relaxing, finally going to stay in one place for a reasonable amount of time to chill out before my Asian travels come to an end.
Bye!

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Angkor Wat

Day 61: Siem Reap, Cambodia
So I'm sitting at an internet cafe in Siem Reap waiting for ITunes to download onto this computer so I thought I would take the time to update on what's new.
It's been a day 0f annoying unfortunate events, I found an awesome shop in the town where they download any album/movie/tv show onto your IPod for just 75c a pop so I went in to arrange a few hundred for my collection. Unfortunately I only have a 9GB IPod so I had to arrange to clear some space on my player to fit them in. To make a long story short, you have to do this through ITunes and can't do it on the IPod so I have to download it to a computer then delete them through this program instead.
Which is going to take some time....
Went to the magnificent Angkor Wat yesterday, one of the seven wonders of the world after checking into Globalteers House on Friday afternoon, just in time for the weekend. After a quick orientation around town I have been allocated a role teaching English to the Cambodian Kids all next week, which should be okay as long as I remember to speak slowly.
You know what's funny though is that people always pick up the accent of the person they leaned to speak English through, I can just imagine all these little Cambodian kids with an Ocker accent making their way about town...
Will post again on the whole volunteer thing but after an early night I got up on Saturday morning for the main event around Siem Reap, Angkor Wat.
Had a really cool guide, Fila, who took me to three of the temples in the local area just outside of town. I was almost through with tours after a rubbish one in Bangkok, the chick who was teh guide just translated the plaques alongside the statues before taking us to jewellery shops and the like. The temples are about 20mins outside of Siem reap and accessible by Tuk Tuk. The main one, Angkor Wat (Wat just means buddhist temple) was built in the 12th century by Surayasomethingorother the 7th as a monument to his rule and also a place where he would be buried. Alot of the architecture is based on Indian designs and this was alos a strategy that Suraya used to unite his people, mostly Buddhist but also a large Hindu population as well. Insise the temple I actually saw more Hindu design than Buddhist, perhaps with all these sort of things there is a bit of this and a bit of that so a nods as good as a wink to a blind donkey and all that.
Went into the main strip with a few of the other volunteers in the evening, I think a backpacker ghetto is a backpacker ghetto wherever you go but Cambodia is alot cheaper than alot of places so you can have a great night out for between 10 and 20 dollars US.
Just taking it easy around the guest house today and getting these downloads sorted after a big sleep in today, they are doing a roast so need to get back while there is still some left.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Siem Reap

Day 59: Siem Reap, Cambodia
So I finally escaped the gravometric pull of Bangkok and made it out of town, better late than never because sometimes you can't control these situations. All energy flows according to the whims of The Great Magnet and only a fool would defy Him.
Having said that, in summary, Bangkok:
1) is relatively expensive compared to most other Asian cities
2) is a great city to party in
3) is similar to a casino where there are no clocks or natural light for the expressed purpose of making you lose track of time
I did buy some nice suits though for my job interviews* when I get back to Australia however I was seriously tempted to have one made out of blue velvet.
Why?
Because in Bangkok, you can get one, top quality, for the price of one month's gym fees.
So I'm glad I got there when I am being more realistic about my travel budget and not at the start of the trip.
Oh yeah, instead of going off onto these random tangents all the time I'm now going to put an asterisk next to the section which I would have otherwise diverged at, and run the tangent at the bottom when I have more time or when I have finished going through what I wanted to on the post. Sort of like footnotes...
So jumped on the Skytrain (aka Monorail) about 11am yesterday and made my way to the end of the line where I caught a cab to the Moe Chit bus terminal**. From there got onto the bus to Arayaprathet which is close to the border, which is about a 6 hour trip. When I got to Aranyaprathet I got a tuk-tuk*** to the Thai/Cambodia border, stupidly let the driver take me to a 'Visa Agency' where I paid double what the border would have charged me for a Cambodian Visa. I must have money to burn, or maybe more dollars than sense....
Crossed the border without fuss then got in a cab from Poipet (next to the border) to Siem Reap (US$35) and made it into town by 8pm****, I had a few guest houses I wanted to check out but the cab driver had other ideas and after 9 hours driving I couldn't be stuffed looking around and stayed at the place he recommended.
These posts on travel days are so boring.
Maybe because travel days are boring.


*Still undecided about timings on the work front but will be definitely be back in Oz for a mate's wedding mid November
**After downloading about 6 hours of podcasts for the trip (Hamish & Andy, Adam Corolla, Merrick and Rosso, Scott Dooley, Sunday Night Saffran)
***A motorbike with a carriage attached, will post a photo in the near future
****Forgot what tangent I was going off on here.....

Monday, October 5, 2009

Shanghaied in Bangkok

Day 56: Bangkok, Thailand
Well here I am, still in Bangkok after almost a week now, due to the unfortunate path of destruction caused by Cyclone Ketsana alot of Laos and Cambodia is underwater at the moment and if I wanted to spend a few days in the mud I would go to the Glastonbury Fetival, at least I could see some great music while I am at it.
I think I mentioned that Bangkok is quite expensive compared with most of the other places I have been, the account is ever dwindling but am expecting my security deposit refund (now 2 months overdue and counting) any day now so hopefully I am not begging on the side of the road this time next week...

Just kidding, oh yea of little faith! There are top men working on it ('Who?' 'TOP MEN!').
I don't know why I keep using that reference from Raiders of the Lost Ark, no-one has ever got it yet...
And besides, the Weighted Stubby Holder, now to be known as The Beerbell, could still come through, there has been no interest yet but it's early days, after all, did you know that a certain British writer named John Creasley received 774 rejections for his first book attempt before he found an editor who would put him into print?
That book has now sold over 30 million copies and counting, and John Creasley is also known as Dr Seuss.

Aaah, these tangents again.....
Not even going to bother going on about my theory on Deja Vu, although it did occur to me to bring it up just before, hopefully off to Cambodia and the magnificent Angkor Wat this week then up into Laos, wish me luck that there will be no more natural disasters like the ones that have followed me through Asia so far (Indo= Earthquake, Philippines= Flood, Vietnam= Typhoon).
Fingers crossed.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Bangkok Again

Day 52: Bangkok, Thailand
So I didn't make it to the monastary, everything was way too rushed to find the forest in the middle of Thailand where the retreat takes place so have just spent the last few days chilling in Bangkok. I made friends with a really cool Thai girl who works at the Lamp Shop around the corner, her English isn't 100% so for the first few times when she told me about her work I thought it wasd a restaurant or something that sold Lamb Chops. When I worked out that it was a job in a Lamp Shop and not selling Lamb Chops I had a bit of a giggle and tried to explain why I thought that was funny but eventually just had to let it go and chock it up to lost in translation.

So since I got in from Vietnam I have just been recovering from my cold by eating lots of healthy food and drinks, as far as that goes Thailand is the place to be. I've posted before on how nutritious the Thai diet is but in addition to that the spicy stuff like the Tom Yam variations are great for cleaning out the sinuses and probably doesn't do the immune system too much harm either.

Was right as rain (I'll get to the rain later) by Wednesday so headed out with my new friends to hit the clubs of Bangkok. Bangkok has a very seedy reputation in regards to it's nightlife, don't get me wrong there is that side of it around the place but there is also a really cool nightclub scene going on as well. Generally the evenings have consisted of meeting up around 9pm after everyone has finished work and having some dinner before heading out to a few of the pubs and clubs around town and drinking and dancing until dawn before doing it again the next day. Unfortunately for me I am the only male in the group so I am always being dragged to the dance floor so by the time morning time comes around I am well and truly buggered, but that's okay because I guess I can count it as a cardio workout as I haven't really been doing any exercise apart from arm curls when I raise a drink to my lips (which again, I will get to later).

Oh yeah, the rain.

Everyone was heading home the other night from one of the trendier clubs in Bangkok called Bed Supperclub where you sit on beds instead of at tables (conceptually too hard to explain, their website is here if you want a look), I had just got my second wind so thought I would have One Last Drink before I headed home for bed (from Bed to bed? blah). Asked the cabbie where there would still be somewhere open and he took me to this place near my guest house and dropped me off. When I popped my head inside it became clear this was a 'Ladybar', the cabbie obviously gets commission for dropping people off there, so i resigned myself that I would not be getting my One Last Drink tonight and headed home instead through the street towards home. The rain is absolutely fierce at the moment after the typhoon which has devastated Manilla, Vietnam and Cambodia so it's really hard to get around, in one of the alleyways there was this little makeshift bar at the side with a few Thais sitting around gambling (gambling is highly illegal in Thailand) so I sat there and had a drink while waiting for a break in the weather. I think I must have lived in Asia too long now as drinking at a makeshift bar/gambling den in a Bangkok alleyway at 4am doesn't really set off any alarm bells for me anymore, and rightly so because after about half an hour I was joined by a couple of other travellers and we ended up drinking until the sun came up. But the rain still didn't stop so I got home completely drenched.

Unfortunately Bangkok is not cheap, I really have to get out of here real soon before I spend all my money.

Or invent something!

Went out last night with a few Warriors boys who are staying in Bangkok and saw a waitress struggling with two massive steins of beer she was delivering to a table. Got me thinking about whether you could attach weights to a drink holder in order to get some exercise while you are having a few drinks.
I pondered the idea again this morning at breakfast and sketched out a prototype:

Could be onto something here, if I can get this one happening it could mean extending my travels indefinitely.

Investors please feel free to contact me at bencameron616@yahoo.com, all offers will be considered.